An Analysis of the Regency Era’s Influence in Contemporary Fashion
The Regency era, which can be described as an era that crave for scandal, sex, delicacies, literature, clothing or material goods, knowledge, and for all things new and fashionable (Wilson, 2007), was an era that formally occurred during the reign of the Prince Regent of England in 1811. The era which generally started at the late 18th century, was a significant time for the west side of the world. How can it be not, the era witnessed an increase of interest in artistic and intellectual flourish. Marked by the rise of romanticism, influenced by prominent literatures of Jane Austen and Lord Byron. It was also deemed as a revolutionary time for the world, as Europe faced tremendous changes in terms of culture, politics, and social transformation.
The era witnessed a shift in political power, as the European monarchies underwent a couple of transitions. Right after the French revolution, in Britain alone the reign shifted from the Georgian era (King George III) to the reign of George IV, which indicates the starting point of the regency era. There was also the establishment of the empire of France by Bonaparte. These political shifts was a huge momentum towards European society, it was characterized by the emergence of new societal norms and an increasing focus on individual expression, naturalism, and freedom. The new idea of embracing the natural self was so deep rooted into European society, fashion started to shift towards such path.
This significant changes started to surge during the French revolution, as people abandoned extravagant life to exclude themself from the portrayal of the bourgeois. However, many historians tend to acknowledge the French Revolution solely by ‘a shift in the political aspect of Europe during the 18th century.’ Whereas, it was also a significant time for reconfiguration of almost every aspect of society, including fashion. (Eddleston, 2013). The event which resulted in the beheading of the French nobles, caused a direct transition in the fashion sector of Europe, which mainly started in Paris, the capital of fashion. According to historian Daniel Rochein, “During the years leading up to the Revolution, Parisians across all social rankings invested increasing amounts of their salaries in clothing. However later during the 1780s, fashion was no longer an interest of the nobility.” (Roche, 1994, p.134).
During this time, social and political unrest had a profound impact on trends, it was characterized as a time when clothing reflected a departure from the rigid and structured garments of the previous Rococo era, to a more relaxed style. It was stated that, “The fashions of the previous eras (referring to the Georgian), characterized by embellishments and ostentatious designs, became largely unpopular by the arrival of the Regency, as the notion of ‘inconspicuous consumption’ began to drive fashionability.” (Frantz, 2003). Even during the years following the French Revolution, popular fashion took on a reactionary stances. Disregarding the extravagant attire associated with monarchy, symbolized by the renowned wide silhouettes, costly fabrics, and elaborate headpieces. Female clothings featured long, flowing skirts with little structure featuring decidedly less structure than the garments of the preceding eras, emphasizing the natural graces of women rather than overt displays of wealth and beauty, (Larson, 2020, p.14).
The style is most often associated with the empire silhouette, named for the First French Empire Josephine who started the trend. It was described as, “A tight-fitting bodice ending just below the bust, meant to give the wearer a high-waisted appearance. Accompanied by increasingly low necklines and shorter sleeves.” (Smith and Stannard, 2016). The silhouette was synonymous with the chemise dress, a humble garment that had always functioned as the female undergarments for the past several centuries. This intriguing anecdote highlights the notable phenomenon of inexpensive materials infiltrating the upper class, showcasing the “trickle-up” effect, in which high fashion is influenced by the clothing of the working class.
This phenomenon was accompanied by the waning popularity of distinct inner and outer layers, as well as a growing demand for affordable and lightweight fabrics like muslin and cotton. These shifts characterized the era as a time of progression. For the next quarter of a century, simplicity ruled and intricate details were dismissed. As Europe became industrialized, the neoclassical aesthetic was especially evident in women’s fashion, it reflected the general decrease in conservatism in which silhouettes became softer and the natural form of female became more visible, (Bruley, 2022). Light-colored gowns with lower necklines, short sleeves, and high waistlines gained massive popularity. The style was also often worn in white, which also denoted a high social status. Early 19th century corsets were also designed to provide a columnar shape to the body and to support the bust instead of cinching the waist.
The influence of the Regency waistline can be observed in modern dresses and gowns. One of its most prominent interpretations can be seen in John Galliano’s Spring/Summer 1986 collection, entitled ‘Fallen Angels’. It took obvious inspiration from post-revolutionary France, a time in which the extravagance of the monarchy was rejected in both political and cultural terms. Incorporating the sheer muslin dress as a fashion statement. The iconic waistline utilizes intricate draping techniques to accentuate the feminine silhouette, paying homage to the enduring influence of Regency fashion.
Regency fashion also brought about a revolution in fabric choices, favoring lightweight and delicate materials that prioritized both comfort and elegance. According to Beach and Rines (1902), the formal styles that had dominated throughout the century, with their stiff fabrics like damasks, velvets, satins, and silks, were replaced by garments made of muslin and soft silk. These fabrics gained popularity due to their softness, breathability, and affordability. Muslin and cotton, in particular, experienced immense success, contributing to the prosperity of the British East India Company.
The increasing demand of cotton prompted the export of large amounts of cotton to British textile manufacturers, it was even testified that by 1811 the import of raw cotton exceeded 90 million pounds, about twice the amount imported in the 1770's, (Corina, 1978). Technological progress was also a pushing factor to the labor productivity of cotton production, making Lancashire the dominating producer of textile during that time, (Broadberry and Gupta, 2009). Thereby it was not due to no reason as to why Britain became a prominent cotton textile exporter during the early 19th century, dominating world export markets (Ellison, 1886). Those economic factors were also contributing variables to the immense popularity of cotton dresses.
Moreover, fashion underwent a growing inclination towards imitating garments from ancient civilizations, embracing orientalism, and engaging in revivalism. Women, in particular, sought inspiration from the timeless elegance of ancient Greece and Rome, adapting their classic fashion styles (Traphagen, 1918). The discoveries of archaeological artifacts of ancient Greece, Rome, and Pompeii further ignited a renewed fascination with the Greco-Roman world, as evidenced by the statement that “During the revolutionary period, there was an obsession with antiquity. It was visible through the renewed interest in the Greek and Roman artwork of the artists of this period,” (Shillian, 1993, p.116).
This adaptation of ancient influences manifested in various aspects of fashion, such as the revival of the meander motif in dress trimmings, which exudes opulence during ancient times. Additionally, Napoleon’s military campaigns in Egypt spurred a resurgence of Egyptomania, with the emperor himself becoming renowned for his fervent embrace of the style. Napoleon’s court even commissioned Velay wallpapers and Sèvres porcelains featuring Egyptian themes (Moonan, 2008). Golden embellishments, a reminiscent to the pharaohs’ could be observed adorning court gowns and coats during that period.
Furthermore, the expansion of European imperialism was accompanied by the influence of Eastern cultures. A notable example is the Royal Pavilion at Brighton, which was constructed in the indo-saracenic style and bore a resemblance to the Taj Mahal, showcasing the pinnacle of Mughal architecture from India. Its interior was also adorned with exotic oriental decorations mimicking the Chinese pagodas. This Eastern aesthetic also found expression in fashion through the use of cashmere shawls featuring paisley motifs, which were considered luxurious and gained popularity thanks to Josephine Bonaparte, who served as a trendsetter for the renowned Regency style. It was so profound, her portrait even depicts her draped in a paisley shawl, evoking the drapery of a Greek Doric Chiton which blends with Indian and Neoclassical influences. (Cole, 2012).
When it comes to prints during the Regency era, floral motifs were at its peak, with garments adorned in intricate and vibrant floral patterns. Endearment towards nature-inspired designs, was the hallmark of regency fashion. It aligned with the love of naturalism, as it brought romantic flicks to fashion. The increasing popularity of floral patterns during this period can also be attributed to the growing stake of botanical and horticulture activities. This was a contributing factor to the rise of demand for floral jacquard during the Regency. While it has been worn for centuries around the globe, it was not until the 1820s when the print became synonymous with a period. As it was mentioned that, “By the 1820s, Jacquard technology had spread to Britain, where it greatly boosted Lancashire’s burgeoning textiles industry, allowing Manchester and its surrounding cotton towns to produce the woven patterned textiles people craved.” (Science and Industry Museum, 2019).
In modern fashion, the revival of floral patterns and prints is a testament to the continued influence of Regency fashion. Floral motifs have seamlessly integrated into contemporary clothing, Erdem spring 2021 collection was not an exception.
Vogue Magazine reviewed the collection and noted that Erdem drew inspiration from Sontag’s portrait of Emma Hamilton, an 18th-century beauty. Erdem’s collection embarked on a “trans-historical voyage” that incorporated elements such as Grecian nymph shift dresses, the puff-sleeved empire silhouette, touches of Nelsonian regalia, and even a nod to Susan Sontag’s post-modern cardigan. Many of the dresses featured embroidered muslin and organza fabrics adorned with floral jacquard prints reminiscent of the 18th century, (Madsen, 2020). This resurgence of floral patterns does not only reflect the timeless beauty of Regency fashion but also serves as a way to connect with nature and evoke a sense of nostalgia and romance.
Moreover, during the Regency era, the availability of pigments was limited and pigments were expensive, as they were derived from natural substances, resulting in a more subdued color palette compared to the vibrant hues achievable with modern synthetic dyes (Jane Austen Website, 2011). Among the fashionable colors of the time, Pomona green was particularly popular and used for trimmings and dresses, as noted in “Explanation of the Prints of Fashion” in 1812. Additionally, Paris green, a poisonous green pigment that possessed excellent colorfastness, held a prominent position in the Regency era (Bentley and Chasteen, 2001). Another notable color that reigned during this period was coquelicot, a bold hue that was only deemed permissible for ladies to use in the form of trimmings or accessories (Baldwin et al., 1801).
Military aesthetics were also apparent in Regency fashion. as evident in the structured garments and outerwear worn by both men and women. The early 1800s saw the availability of ready-made cloaks across Europe, featuring various military-inspired styles such as the Spencer jacket, pelisse, and redingote or frock jacket that were embellished with military influence trimmings and braids. Notable figures, like Lord Byron, showed a fondness for this style. He shows an interest in military dress or clothing embellished with military trimmings (Wilcox, 2021, p.230). This attraction to military-inspired fashion continued throughout his life, particularly during his preparations for his journey to Greece to support the Greek struggle for independence (Moore, 1974).
To pinpoint the remaining relevance of regency fashion, it is crucial to examine modern adaptation of Regency aesthetic in contemporary media and fashion. The revival of Regency popularity played a significant impact on popular media, particularly through its portrayal in films and television shows. Period dramas set in the Regency era, such as Jane Austen film adaptations ‘Pride and Prejudice’ and ‘Emma’ have showcased the beauty of Regency clothing. The portrayal of Regency-inspired fashion in films and television has not only created visual spectacles but also influenced contemporary fashion trends. It was even reported by Lyst that online searches for Regency garments have risen dramatically by the release of the Regency-based television drama, ‘Bridgerton’. With empire-waist dresses, the prominent silhouette of the era, rose up to 93% in popularity, (Farra, 2021).
Regency fashion has gained immense emulation in contemporary culture as well. The influence of the Regency era can be seen in various contemporary fashion houses. One of the most notable designers who had immense interest in reviving Regency fashion was John Galliano. This silhouette, is something of an obsession with the genius designer, who has referenced the look over and over again in his wildly romantic collections the past few years, particularly when he worked with Dior in spring couture collection in 2005. Reviewed by Vogue, the collection was one of the few notable examples of regency fashion revival on high fashion, the silhouette obtained from Napoleonic coats and Josephine gowns was capable of reverberating fashion for seasons to come, (Mower, 2005). One of the pieces from the collection can be seen on the 2005 Oscars red carpet, when Gisele Bündchen walked the path in the sparkling empire-line Dior Haute Couture gown. (Borelli-Persson, 2016).
On the other hand, several other notable designers have also borrowed from Regency fashion styles as their runaway muses. Vivienne Westwood with her debut runway show, “Pirate” in 1981 featured an empire waisted chemise straight from the regency. While Dolce Gabbana showcased Spencer coat and empire waistline into runaway worthy pieces during its fall 2006 collection. They were translating the regency aesthetic into an exact level, it was even mentioned by Vogue that their fall 2006 collection was advancing into fall with Napoleonic zeal — literally. (Mower, 2006).
The enduring popularity of Regency-inspired fashion is rooted in the recognition of the historical and cultural value of fashion. Historical fashion serves as a source of inspiration, allowing individuals to connect with the past and appreciate the craftsmanship and artistry of bygone eras. Regency fashion, in particular, has a distinct charm and allure that continues to resonate with contemporary audiences. It also plays a crucial role in shaping contemporary style. Fashion is a continuous cycle of inspiration and reinvention, with designers and individuals alike drawing from the past to create something new and relevant. Elements of Regency fashion can be found in contemporary designs, whether through the use of Empire waistlines, delicate fabrics, or vintage-inspired details. The enduring popularity of Regency-inspired fashion highlights its ongoing impact on the evolution of style and its ability to adapt to changing trends.
As such, the impact of Regency fashion worldwide is a testament to how revolutionary the era was. Since the attributes of Regency fashion extend beyond mere aesthetics; over the span of three decades, fashion has shifted from ornamented and opulent to minimalist simplicity. It represents a cultural and historical shift, embodying the notions of women’s liberation, individual expression, and cultural explorations.
